We were going back in history as we drove on the grand trunk road towards the Rhotas Fort. It occurred to me that we were going to pay a tribute to the man who had created this vital lifeline, which had served generations for the last 450 years.
We arrived to the setting of the sun. Nadia and Fida Raja had been insistent that we leave early. It was obvious why in the absence of electricity it would have been difficult to tour the ruins. Tea and snacks had been laid out for us near the haveli, built by Akbar’s famous general, Man Singh. Gow Takia’s and Takht had been set against the backdrop of the simple grandeur of the scenery. We were welcomed by Dr. Anis-ur-Rehman and his lovely wife, Abeedah, who were one of the few who were dressed in keeping with the occasion.
Everyone was there from the Minister of Culture, Mr. S.K Tresslor, the Federal Minister for Finance, Mr Shaukat Aziz, The Sindh Finance and Cultural Minister, Hafeez Sheikh and his wife, Nadeen, Head of the Visiting European Union Delegation, Iikka Uusitalo, , Director General, PNCA, Raja Changez Sultan, Several Heads of Corporations and Diplomats. Not to forget our most original fashion designer, Nilofar Shahid who had come in especially from Lahore. The list of who’s who was endless.
I had been looking around for Dr Farooq Beg, the Director of the show and my mentor, and having spotted some crew went over to them near the main Shahchand wali gate, which was encased by the scaffolding. Dr Beg, as I had expected looked very tired and unusually tense–“ Pray hard, Amina. If we pull this through it will be a marvel, considering that we are using so many local actors who have no experience and four location directors all on their own. “We have been leaving every morning at 5 from this place for the past two weeks now,” confided Haroon, the location director. The producer of the show, Huma Beg was busy giving last minute instructions. It dawned on me how complex and complicated this whole operation was since there was no electricity and miles of cables had to be laid all around the fort to connect hundreds of lights and a dozen speakers. The sound track had to sink with the lighting and the actors who were acting but not speaking their parts as the sound track was prerecorded in the voices of veteran actors but the voice that won the day was definitely the narration by Dr. Beg himself – no biases, of course! The haunting music and songs were composed by another medical doctor, Syed Ahsan Ishaq, which were available on CD for those who were interested. I got one free!
As it began to grow dark, the crowd moved to where the tables were laid out right in the middle of the pavilion with the smoke stirring gastric juice with promise of a good feast to follow. There was so much suspense. I am not sure many understood exactly what a light and sound show entails but titillating innuendo held everyone in suspense:
You are seated amidst the grandeur of the majestic showpiece of the Suri dynasty…. the world heritage site Rohtas Fort.
Suddenly the lights begin to dim as music fills the air and rises to a crescendo.
The fort starts to come to life as a platoon of horsemen race across the fort and alight at the top of the hill.
Two handsome soldiers step forward and look to where you are seated.
In deep authoritative and eloquent style one of them declares “ One day I will rule over Hindustan’
Welcome to the court of The Kings of kings Sher Shah Suri.
Welcome to Rhotas …you are about to relive an experience you will cherish for a long time.
This proved to be no exaggeration. Not a soul left that day without saying what they had seen was spectular. This show surpassed it all. I wasn’t the only one saying that. Tariq Amin summed it up so eloquently,” Wow, Wow, Wow.” Even Susannah Price, the BBC Correspondent was forced to admit it was a” Great performance, fantastic setting, beautiful place.” The wife of the Head of the European union was heard saying, “It was fascinating like a fabulous fairy tale.” Sadruddin Hashwani was more lavish, “This is the best show I have ever seen in my life. I don’t think you can compare it with any thing in the world.” Federal Minister Finance Shaukat Aziz, thought it was “a superb performance. Absolutely world class.” Friends who had not been able to attend were full of regrets. Amina, wife of Malik Amin Aslam called the next day to say that all she had talked to said it was a once in a life time experience.
The programme began with an inspiring and thankfully, short documentary by Serendip outling the achievements of the group at Ramkot and ending in a solemn appeal ,”Rhotas is gasping for attention”. Dr. Anis had this to add,”As the evening will unfold before you we will leave you to contemplate on the future of these buildings which surround you. Will you continue to help conserve and preserve them? Or let them die a slow death?’
History, at best can only have versions. What Fatima Surriya Bajya, with the Serendip team endeavored to do was to give some insight into the human in one of the most enigmatic and competent rulers of the Muslim period.
As the lights dimmed and actors appeared on cue the drama began to enfold. And the next 60 minute held us spell bound as scene after scene, action after action moved from ecstasy to sadness, from tragedy to treachery, from frustration to victory parades complete with horses and camels covered in royal garbs had the audience applauding with each transition. We all turned this way and that as scenes were enacted all around the fort that surrounded us. Professor Dani, the noted historian and archaeologist summed it up beautifully, “Well history is one aspect but this was great entertainment and very enjoyable living history.”
Young Fareed Khan is the amiable but highly ambitious son of Mian Hassan , a soldier and a landlord. However his scheming stepmother contrives to have him exiled, hoping to cut off all access to power. But this can hardly deter young Fareed. His fame as an administrator and a military genius spreads fast while his affection for the Rajput princess, Chandravati turns into obsession. Fareed kidnaps her and captures the Raja . However when on her appeal he frees him, the Raja consumed with hate, attacks Fareed and is killed by the timely intervention of the loyal Khawaas khan. Chandravati has no choice but to commit Jauhaar, a hindu practice where defeat led to women burning in communal fire. The distraught Fareed turns his attention to his archenemy, the Mughal emperor Humayun, who is on the run. Fareed khan now adopts the title of Sher Shah Suri as the Emperor of Hindustan. His five-year rule is exemplary in the reforms he introduces and the administration system he puts in place. However, till he captures the fortress of Jharkand where resides the Raja’s concubine whose beauty and brains are legendary, he will have no peace. It is here that fate abandons Sher Shah Suri. In victory he faces death that confounds historians to this date. It is said that when Humayun got his news, his words became a part of history never to be forgotten, “It is not a king who has died but the tutor of all kings who is dead.”
The evening cannot be complete without the mention of the wonderful folk dance by a troupe from Lahore, and the fireworks that added spectacle to the whole show.
We have to thank the Himalayan Wildlife Fund and the Rhotas Conservation team led by Dr Anis – ur Rehman who have all been working voluntarily. The going for Rhotas has not been easy. Initially friends and corporations helped raise a tidy sum, which was however not enough. Farooq Rehmatullah, the Country Chairman of Shell Pakistan related how a simple dental appointment had cost him the signing of a cheque of an amount worthy of the Guinness book of records. The Minister and the Secretary of culture had been suitably impressed with their enthusiasm and on the basis of certain preliminaries; the NFCH has continued to support the cause. However, the condition remains - support continues as long as the HWF continues to raise funds that will be matched. The late Omar Asghar khan and Shoaib Sultan had been very instrumental in initiating a community partnership with the local residents of Rhotas village, which is being converted into a heritage village. The project is being managed with the help of UNDP and PPAF by Sumaira Khan who was also the hostess that evening.
As we all drove back at the end of the evening, We noticed the locals who had come out to see the rich milieu that had come to Rhotas. They had probably never seen any thing of this kind and as one of our group commented, that this is probably the first time after Sher Shah’s death that he has been honored.
